The Igala Achi Textile

The Igala is one of the five main ethnic groups in Kogi State, North central Nigeria and also spread across different states in Nigeria. The Igala people share history with some tribes in Southwestern Nigeria whereby they received their name ‘Igala’ from the Yoruba tribe, which means Antelope. In recent times, Igala people are mostly found in Benue, Adamawa, Nassarawa, Enugu, Anambra, Delta and Edo States.

The Igala just like many other ethnic groups in Nigeria had well developed traditional techno-scientific industries prior to the advent of British colonialism. One of these industries which thrived in Igala land was the art of textile production, it involved a complex process and was gendered. The products of traditional Igala textile industry served and still serves social, economic, cultural and political roles. However, with the emergence of European colonialism, the Igala textile industry nose-dived. Igala people are blessed with a refined cultural background and they take pride in their cultures and traditions, one of which is their fascinating traditional attire popularly called Igala Achi.

The Igala cloth was originally commissioned by Late Dr. Steven Achema when he was the Chairman of the old Idah local government council comprising the present Idah, Ibaji, Ofu and Igalamela / Odolu local government areas and was designed by Musa Agi who was a lecturer in Benue Polytechnic Ugbokolo in Benue State. Dr. Steven Achema was amongst the first set of people to support and promote this fabric design using hand weaving looms and he established place in Idah (Women Domestic Centre) for women to weave the fabric. After the death of Dr. Achema, the cloth was adopted by the Ebulejonu sisters, an Igala women organisation led by Mama Ataguba and Mama Onekutu. By popular demand, the cloth became the national clothing of the people of Igala land. However upon creation of Kogi state, Baba Ojonugwa J.F.O and many Igala celebrities wore and promoted the hand woven clothing amidst great mockery by many & were called ‘local’ so in 2014, the wax print of the design slowly crept into the market. They continued wearing the ‘local’ fabrics until it was adopted by many but not without a fight by certain Igala groups who didn’t like the multiple colours and wished they had a two-colour design like the Tiv and Idoma groups.

The highlight of the great acceptance of Igala Achi was when Gabaidu Idakwo Ameh Oboni wore it and endorsed both the wax print and the Ebulejonu fabric. The Chief Hilary Amodu of WHO’s WHO in IGALA LAND event at Abuja & the Carnival at Ayingba made hand flags of the colours for all her guests and slowly the colours became accepted as the Igala national colours, predominantly gold, yellow, blue, white and black. The Gold colour represent the wealth of Igala land , Yellow represents the beauty of the land and a particular yellow yam peculiar to the Igala soil, Black represents the skin colour, a touch of Blue is also on the cloth representing the waters found in Igala land meaning the land is by the water and not a desert while the white is peace & green in vegetation.

The Igala Achi is an elegant fabric designed with two predominant colours which are – mustard yellow and black. The fabric colours may also include blue (rarely), white and green stripes which fully complement the major colours, giving it an elaborate look. The colours are not only for beautification but with deep cultural significance. The black and yellow colours are very peculiar to the history of the Igala Kingdom. The black, which portrays the richness embedded in Igala land is symbolic to the minerals, crude oil and fertility of the land. It also translates to the wealth and prosperity of the Igala people. Yellow on the other hand symbolizes the hospitality of Igala people and gold, which stands as a mark of prosperity and wealth. The green and white, which is peculiar to the African continent as a whole represent peace and harmony.

Today, Igala Achi is worn generally by the people of Kogi State, and also irrespective of tribe for diverse reasons. Although traditionally it can be worn as a wrapper by women and female children with a nicely made head gear from the same fabric, it can also be transformed into beautiful styles.