The Akwete Textile

The Akwete fabric is an Igbo textile art from the Akwete clan of the Ndoki subgroup of the South Eastern part of Igbo land, straddling between Ukwa area of Abia State, Oyigbo area of Rivers State, and pockets of the Western limits of Akwa-Ibom State in Nigeria. The first record of the production of Akwete fabric was said to be in the mid-19th century and it was introduced to the community by the legendary weaver, Dada Nwakata. The weaving of Akwete fabric has always been and is still being done by women. Older women are known to favour this trade as it gives them an outlet for their creativity and the spool can easily be set up in their backyards or verandahs. The weaving and trading of Akwete fabric is also passed down from these older women to their younger female relatives.
Generally, the Akwaete fabric signifies strength, power, and vitality amongst the Akwaete people of Abia state.

Akwete fabrics come in different motifs that are worn for different occasions and signify differences in social statuses in some cases. In terms of trade with other cultures, a commonly traded cloth was ‘Awka Miri’ (Cloth of the water) translating as ‘towel’. It was woven as either a white cloth or a white cloth with indigo stripes. ‘Tortoise’ or ‘Ikaki’ is the most commonly produced motif and pattern in Akwete. The ikaki motif imagined as a tortoise here, is based on an Ijebu-Yoruba prestige cloth, Aso Olona – created for royalty. This motif used the image of the tortoise, viewed as a wise and cunning creature symbolic of chieftaincy. It was also used for coronations and royal burials. It additionally represented peace. Ikaki itself has subcategories of motifs, Ikaki’s tortoise motif is the first and original pattern.

In the present day, there have been quite a few advancements regarding the production of Akwete fabric. People of any gender and culture can learn how to produce the fabric as long as they have an interest in it. The fabric can also be purchased in any motif you want regardless of what it used to signify culturally. In Nigeria, while its birthplace remains Akwete, Abia state, it is now popularly produced in Enugu, Ebonyi, and Benue states. In Ebonyi state, the Ekwueme Federal University established a centre focused on Akwete weaving as well as a year’s worth Akwete weaving course. The university also encourages students to wear Akwete cloth on ‘Traditional Dress Mondays’ and gives the best-woven pieces produced at the centre to important visitors as gifts.

Akwete has been featured in many fashion publications and houses and has been used to make different kinds of clothing — trousers, gowns, jackets, wrappers etc. The fabric’s sturdiness makes it an excellent choice for tailored clothing items and its durability ensures that it can be passed down from generation to generation within families. Shop a wide variety of Akwete fabrics here